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Adjusting
Valves.
Now adjusting valves can be an easy and accurate job. By using our
spring loaded valve adjusting tool it's virtually impossible to
set a valve too tight, which could burn the valve. Once set, the
feeler gauge should feel snug between the rocker arm eccentric and
valve stem, yet it should disengage smoothly. Generally it is considered
best to set the valve to the tighter end of the factory specified
range. While you have the valve cover off it's important to check
that the rocker shaft plugs are tight, and also torque the banjo
bolt(s) holding down the camshaft oiler tube. Serious valvetrain
damage can result if these parts are loose.
Replacing
Power Window Switches.
When replacing power window switches, an easy upgrade from non illuminated
switches is the illuminated power window and sunroof switch. BMW
changed to these illuminated switches for greater driving safety.
Carefully pry out the old switch and unhook the wiring harness.
The wiring harness end is the same for the new switch. They plug
right in and are easy to see at night and look great.
Installing
Aerodynamic Components.
Before proceeding, inspect each part for correct fit and style.
Remember, once a component has been altered, painted or installed
it is no longer returnable. We recommend that you have a professional
install your aerodynamic components since they are made from many
types of materials that require a variety of techniques for mounting
and painting. All mold agents need to be carefully removed and special
flex agents must be added to paint so it adheres and does not crack.
To preserve the new finish, check to see how long paint should cure
before washing and waxing. Lastly, when installing a wing on the
trunk of an older model car, check the trunk shocks to be sure they
can handle the new load. They may need replacement.
Replacing
Exhaust Components.
Worn exhaust brackets and hangers can prematurely and needlessly
damage your exhaust system. If you hear rattling under the car you
should investigate immediately, because the failure of a hanger
or bracket can easily destroy expensive exhaust components. If you
find a problem, our exhaust installation kits contain all the brackets,
seal rings and hardware needed to properly support the exhaust system
from the back of the catalytic converter or down pipe to the rear
of the car.
Shock
Absorber Replacement.
Shock absorbers generally need to be replaced at least once during
the life of your car. When installing shocks we recommend you have
both Bavarian Autosport shock installation kits and upper strut
bearings so you don't get stuck in the middle of a job. Our shock
installation kits typically include: rubber spring pads, plastic
protection tubes and compression absorbers when applicable. These
kits are specific to the year and model of your BMW.
Installing
Spark Plugs.
When installing spark plugs in aluminum cylinder heads, be sure
to coat the threads with an anti-seize compound to minimize the
risk of a plug becoming frozen to the threads in the head. Should
this happen there is a greater chance of stripping the threads which
could cause a costly and time consuming repair.
Refilling
Cooling System.
When refilling your cooling system we recommend Water Wetter by
Red Line, a cooling system heat transfer agent that improves the
ability of the coolant to transfer heat. Water Wetter's unique heat
transferring ability reduces engine and coolant temperatures by
as much as 20°. The cooler engine temperature is especially helpful
for cars frequently driven in heavy traffic, hilly or mountainous
terrain and warm climates. This product is also recommended for
hard driven, modified engines.
Changing
a Clutch Slave Cylinder.
Changing a clutch slave cylinder is a fairly simple job and doesn't
require much in the way of special tools. When the new slave cylinder
is installed you'll need to bleed the clutch hydraulic system. To
bleed the clutch system without a power bleeder you will need two
people. First, make sure the brake fluid reservoir is topped off.
Take a length of vacuum hose and push it over the bleeder screw
on the clutch slave cylinder. Next, pour a small amount of brake
fluid into a clear container and make sure the end of the vacuum
hose stays submerged. Have your assistant pump the clutch pedal
steadily for 10 repetitions then hold it to the floor. Open the
bleeder screw and a small amount of fluid and air will ease out.
Repeat several times until you have a strong pedal and the fluid
runs clear. Top off the brake reservoir and you're ready to drive.
Brake
Pads and Shoes.
When changing brake pads and shoes, inspect your calipers and wheel
cylinders for signs of fluid leakage or cracked dust boots. Either
of these conditions warrant immediate replacement of the caliper
or cylinder. Your BMW has four or more flexible rubber brake lines
connecting to the calipers, cylinders and trailing arms which can
dry rot and crack over time. Even if no leakage is detected, a cracked
line must be replaced. Some of you might want to upgrade to our
stainless steel brake line kits to provide a stronger pedal under
hard brake usage. It is extremely important to change your brake
fluid once a year to maintain the reliability of the entire braking
system. Brake fluid changes are required in order to remove contaminants
and moisture from the system.
Helpful
Hints For Restorers.
Restorers should bag and label everything they remove from the car.
I also keep a pad of paper outlining disassembly procedures and
notes along with my Haynes manual. Check parts carefully and order
new ones as you proceed through the project. Restorations can take
several years and you'll appreciate the notes upon assembly. Also,
keep your invoices on one clipboard to keep your order and invoice
numbers available for handy reference when calling for parts.
Five Steps to a Brilliant Finish.
1. Wash - Wash your car by hand to gently remove loose contaminants.
Use tools and soaps formulated for a car's finish so not to strip
wax or scratch paint. Wash in a shaded area and use a chamois to avoid
harmful water spots.
2. Cleanse - Washing alone cannot remove blemishes, oxidation,
and embedded contaminants like acid rain, bird droppings, bugs, etc.
Use a specialty cleanser to achieve a uniform finish to apply wax
to.
3. Wax - Waxing protects your finish and adds a deep glossy
shine.
4. Detail - There is more to preserving your investment than protecting
the finish. Wheels, vinyl, leather, rubber, glass and plastics need
to be cleaned and nourished.
5. Maintain - It is important to establish a car care regiment
that's right for you and where you live. As a simple rule of thumb,
cleanse twice a year. Make sure you detail and wax once a month.
The Ups and Downs
of Suspension.
You don't have to be an engineer to understand the principles at
work on a car in motion. In fact, if all the components of your
BMW's suspension are working in harmony, you shouldn't have to think
much about them at all. Fishtailing or understeering are signs that
your front and rear springs are imbalanced -- too much "yaw". If
you like to drive fast, mismatched springs might not only dampen
your driving pleasure, but could also be dangerous. The right spring
and shock combination can reduce a car's tendency to pitch, and
improve safety in snow and rain. A swaybar will stiffen the connection
between your BMW's suspension and body and reduce roll, allowing
you to corner faster and more confidently. Attention to your BMW's
suspension will pay off in big ways. You'll drive better, and you'll
be getting the best possible performance out of your car.
Replacing Timing Belts.
Many BMWs have engines with timing belts. Timing belts can break
and when they do, so can your engine. Therefore, it is important
to replace timing belts at least every 60,000 miles! While replacing
your belt it is a good idea to replace the tensioner pulley. Since
you have this section of the engine apart, it's also a perfect opportunity
to check the play on the water pump bearing and look to see if there
is any seepage coming from the inspection hole. Also inspect the
play in the fan clutch bearing and check the distributor cap and
rotor for any wear or corrosion. These repairs can be made with
very little additional labor to changing the timing belt.
Hot Running BMWs.
Most BMWs have two switches in the radiator that control the auxiliary
fan in front of the AC condenser. These are usually set to 91° and
99° Celsius. Replacing the 91° with an 82° switch and swapping the
99° with your 91° switch will turn the fan on at a lower temperature
setting helping the engine to run cooler. Another way to help when
running a little warm is switching to a cooler thermostat. This
can help older cars, but newer cars operate within a narrower temperature
range. If the thermostat is too cool, the engine will stay continuously
in the warm-up mode, affecting performance and emissions.
Faulty Service Interval Lights.
If your oil/service lights turn on prematurely after using our reset
tool, the printed circuit board with battery pack (located behind
your instrument cluster) may need replacing. The battery pack may
no longer be holding a charge.
Emblem Removal.
The hood or trunk badges on your BMW are pushed into grommets to
hold them in place. These grommets are located at 3 and 9 o'clock.
To remove a badge use a thin bladed screwdriver and a clean rag.
Lift the badge up a little at a time using the rag under the screwdriver
to protect the paint. Once you can get your fingers under the badge,
pull it straight up. Be very patient and do not rock the screwdriver.
Always lift straight up so that you don't scratch the paint.
Tie Rod Removal.
If the tie rod is attached to a component that needs to be replaced
or disassembled it is extremely difficult not to tear the tie rod
boot during disassembly. If the boot becomes torn it will cause
the tie rod to fail very quickly. We have available a tie rod puller
tool that will separate the tie rod without damaging the tie rod
boot. It can pay for itself the first time you use it. Choosing
the right tool for the job can make your life under the hood easier
and more enjoyable.
Replacing
Electric Antenna Masts.
Before ordering a new mast, check the nylon retractor cord at the
base of your antenna mast to see whether it is smooth or has teeth.
To replace the mast, turn the radio on to extend the mast as far
as it will go. With a 12mm wrench fully loosen the threaded bushing
at the base of the mast. Turn your radio off and on again, the mast
and cord should feed all the way out of the antenna assembly. Next,
insert the new cord (with teeth facing rear of car, if applicable)
and turn the radio off. The nylon cord and mast will be pulled into
the antenna assembly. Tighten mast bushing and try the radio a few
times to check that the antenna is operating smoothly.
Brake
Warning Light Problems
Brake
warning light problems are fairly common. Sometimes the check control
system will erroneously display information that a brake light bulb
is out. The warning circuit checks the resistance in the tail light
circuit and illuminates the warning light if it senses anything
out of spec. We recommend starting off by checking the bulbs. Make
sure they are the correct voltage and size. Then check the bulb
sockets for any corrosion or buildup. If these things check out
but you're still having problems then you may want to try Original
BMW bulbs. The resistance of some aftermarket bulbs may not meet
the tight tolerances that your check control system requires. The
BMW bulbs seem to work better. If that doesn't work check all the
wiring connections. Also be aware that some cars (5 series 89-95,
7 series 88-94) use a bulb control module that when it fails can
cause the warning lights to come on erroneously and/or turn off
the lights randomly.
3 Series 92 to 98 Fog Light Replacement
To install a fog light, insert a flat blade screwdriver through
the front bumper grill and release the fog light retaining clip.
Remove the fog light and disconnect the wiring harness. Installation
is the reverse of removal.
Radio
Code
When power is interrupted to the radio it goes into a theft prevention
mode. In order to restore use of the radio you must input the correct
code. The code should be in the radio owners manual or can be obtained
from a BMW dealer. Bavarian Autosport cannot supply radio codes.
The code should be 4 or 5 digits. Input the code into the radio
one digit at a time using the the radio station preset buttons.
If you make an incorrect input, finish inputting the complete code,
then restart from the beginning. If you're still having a problem
leave the radio on with the key in the "run" position for 60 minutes
or longer then re-input the code. If you still cannot input the
code the radio may require replacement.
AC Microfilter Replacement
5 series 89-95
Remove the glovebox compartment and pull the trim panel out from
the rear clip. Remove the cover by disconnecting the clip and pulling
out. Remove the air duct screws and lift out. Disconnect the wires
from the control unit. Remove the stage from the filter cover. Remove
the cover screw and turn the holder. Remove the cover and the filter.
Install the filter, cover and stage. Connect the control unit. Install
the air duct and the cover. Install the trim panel and the glove
compartment. Installation is the reverse of removal.
3 series
92-98
Place the vents above the glove compartment straight forward and
remove from the dashboard. Remove the 6 screws holding the glove
compartment and remove the unit complete with the lower trim panel.
Remove the footwell duct for the heater. Remove the screws holding
the control unit bracket and tilt down. Turn the lock and remove
the cover. Pull the filter out of the housing. Installation is the
reverse of removal.
Computer
Display is Dim
If the computer display is only visible in bright sunlight or direct
light the problem is very likely caused by a faulty computer LED
light bar.
Replacing the computer light bar procedure:
SAFETY WARNING:
Be sure the ignition switch is in the OFF position before removing
or attaching any electrical connectors. 3 series 84-91 1)
Open glovebox and remove the pins securing the limiting straps to
the glovebox, let the glovebox open to the floor. 2) Remove the
trim cover to the left of the glovebox, which will allow access
to the area behind the computer. 3) Using a small Phillips head
screwdriver remove the four screws at the rear of the computer,
which hold it in place. Gently pull the computer unit out without
disconnecting any wires. 4) On the right side of the computer unit,
at the top, is a white plastic protrusion. This is the light bar.
Pull the light bar out using needle nose pliers. 5) Push in the
new light bar and test for proper illumination. 6) Reinstall the
computer unit, trim panel and glovebox. 5 series 82-88 1)
Remove fuses # 5, 6 and 12. 2) Remove the two Phillips head screws
at the top of the instrument cluster, which secure the cluster assembly
into the dashboard. 3) Pull the cluster out slightly and turn it
toward a 45-degree angle so that the right side is pulled out farther
than the left side. 4) The two screws securing the computer unit
are now exposed. Remove the screws and pull the unit from the cluster
by angling it as required and pulling toward the rear. 5) Gently
turn the computer unit clockwise to expose the three wiring connectors.
Gently remove the connectors from the rear window defogger and hazard
switches. Pull out the center disconnect on the computer connector
and slide the connector off. 6) On the right side of the computer
unit, at the top, is a white plastic protrusion. This is the light
bar. Pull the light bar out using needle nose pliers. Push the new
light bar into position in the computer unit. 7) Reinstall the wiring
connectors and install the unit into the cluster. Reinstall the
cluster.
Handling
Adjustment Tips
| Adjustment
|
To
increase understeer |
To
increase oversteer |
| Front Tire
Pressure |
Lower |
Higher |
| Rear
Tire Pressure |
Higher
|
Lower
|
| Front Tire
Section |
Smaller
|
Larger |
| Rear Tire
Section |
Larger |
Smaller |
| Front Wheel
Camber |
More Positive |
More Negative |
| Rear Wheel
Camber |
More Negative |
More Positive |
| Front Springs |
Stiffer |
Softer |
| Rear Springs |
Softer
|
Stiffer |
| Front Swaybar |
Thicker(stiffer) |
Thinner
(weaker) |
| Rear Swaybar |
Thinner
(weaker) |
Thicker(stiffer) |
| Weight
Distribution |
More Forward |
More Rearward |
Front
End Shimmy?
Check
the upper control arm bushings.
A common problem on the 5,6, and 7 series cars is front end shake
or shimmy.
This shake is usually speed sensitive and may be amplified under
braking (although
the brake pedal itself does not pulse, as with warped rotors). The
most common
culprit is the upper control arm (or thrust arm) bushings. These
rubber bushings
have the thankless task of absorbing all of the rearward push or
torque loading of the
front suspension (and the full weight of the vehicle under braking).
Is it any wonder
they give up the task after a few years of driving? Replacing these
bushings will typically
cure the front-end shake. Bavarian Autosport offers an upgraded
high-performance
bushing. These upgraded upper control arm bushings will give much
longer life and will
help to keep the proper suspension geometry under performance type
driving conditions.
Brake Pedal Feeling
Hard?
Maybe It's Your Nitrogen Ball
If your 5,6,7 or 8 series BMW develops a problem with the brake
pedal feeling "hard"
and the brakes have a delayed action, you may have a failed Pressure
Accumulator or
Nitrogen Ball. If you initially hit the brake pedal and it feels
abnormally hard and the brakes
do not activate immediately, then the pedal softens and the brakes
actuate, this is usually the
result of a ruptured diaphragm in the Nitrogen Ball and the boost
is degraded.
It is easy to replace the Nitrogen Ball which is screwed into the
bottom of the pressure
regulator (it's under the hood on the driver's side and looks like
a black softball). Before
unscrewing the ball, pump the brake pedal (with the engine off)
about 20 times to bleed
down the pressure in the boost system. Install the Nitrogen Ball,
then start the engine and
top off the power steering fluid reservoir. It is also a good idea
to replace the two pressure
switches on the pressure regulator while replacing the Nitrogen
Ball as they have a history
of leaking with age.
For
Safety, Maintain Your Brake
When changing brake pads and shoes, inspect your calipers and wheel
cylinders for signs of fluid leakage or cracked dust boots. Either
of these conditions warrant immediate replacement
of the caliper or cylinder. Your BMW has four or more flexible rubber
brake lines connecting to the calipers, cylinders and trailing arms.
These rubber lines can dry rot and crack over time.
Even if no leakage is detected, a cracked line must be replaced
for safety. For longer life, we recommend upgrading to Bavarian
Autosport stainless steel brake lines. Even if your not replacing
any hardware on your brakes, it is extremely important to change
your brake fluid once a year to maintain the reliability of the
entire braking braking system. Brake fluid changes remove contaminants
and moisture from the system. In the past, these fluid changes were
a real hassle. You had to recruit someone to pump the brake pedal
and help you bleed the air out of the system. We now offer a low-cost,
easy-to-use brake bleeding kit that eliminates the need for an assistant
and allows you to perform the task with confidence, all by yourself.
BMW
Service Indicator Lights
Traditionally, oil change/maintenance schedules have been based
on miles driven. However, your driving style and the conditions
in which you drive play a major role in the amount of wear and tear
placed on an engine. For example, 30,000 miles of city driving (numerous
short trips, stop-and-go driving, lots of cold starts) requires
more frequent oil changes than 30,000 miles of long distance driving
at low engine speeds.
Your BMW takes
such factors into consideration when computing the proper maintenance
interval. Heavy fuel consumption, high engine coolant temperatures,
high engine speeds, short trips and frequent starts wear on an engine
more than the total miles might indicate. So even though you may
not have driven a certain number of miles since your last oil change,
when that indicator goes on you should service your BMW.
Many of our
customers find it easy (and cost-effective!) to perform several
service tasks themselves, including oil changes and minor tune-ups.
But they fail to reset the service interval indicator. Without a
functioning indicator, do-it-yourselfers must guess when the next
service should happen. A wrong guess can severely damage a BMW's
engine.
We offer an
oil/service reset tool that makes it easy to reset the interval
indicator. Just plug it into the diagnostic plug and push a button!
You'll know precisely when your BMW needs more service , avoiding
potentially costly wear and tear on your bimmer's engine. Plus it
can pay for itself many tines over.
5
Series 89-95 Headlight Removal
1.
open engine hood and remove screw above center grill
2. insert screwdriver into holes (left and right sides) on
radiator support. Press down on screwdriver to release locking clip
while pulling front panel forward.
3. Using a screwdriver, release retaining clips at center
grill and remove center grill with lower panel
4. Remove complete center grill together with front panel
5. Remove screws from front grills
6. Remove grills.
Excerpt from Bentley 5 Series 89-95 Service manual
BMW Chassis Codes
| Chassis
Codes |
| Chassis Type |
Application |
| 114 |
1600, 2002, 2002tii |
| E3 |
2500, 2800, Bavaria, 3.0s/si |
| E9 |
2500cs, 2800cs, 3.0cs |
| E12 |
530i,528i thru 81 |
| E21 |
320i, 323i 77 thru 83 |
| E23 |
7 series 78 thru 87 |
| E24 |
6 series 77 thru 88 |
| E26 |
M1 78 thru 81 |
| E28 |
5 series 82 thru 88 |
| E30 |
3 series 84 thru 91 |
| E31 |
8 series 90 thru 97 |
| E32 |
7 series 88 thru 94 |
| E34 |
5 series 89 thru 95 |
| E36 |
3 series 92 thru 99 |
| E36/5 |
3 series compact/hatchback, 95 thru 99 |
| E36/7 |
Z3 roadster, 96 thru 2002 |
| E38 |
7 series 95 thru 01 |
| E39 |
5 series 97 thru 03 |
| E46 |
3 series 99 thru 06 |
| E53 |
X5 SAV (Sports Activity Vehicle) 99 on |
| E60 |
5 series 2004 on |
| E61 |
5 series wagon, 2004 on |
| E63 |
6 series, 2004 on |
| E64 |
6 series convertible, 2004 on |
| E65 |
7 series, 2002 on |
| E66 |
7 series Li, 2002 on |
| E83 |
X3 SAV (Sports Activity Vehicle) 03 on |
| E85 |
Z4 roadster, 2002 on |
| E90 |
3 series sedan, 2006 on |
| E91 |
3 series wagon, 2006 on |
|
|
BMW Engine Codes
| BMW
Engine Codes |
| Engine
Code |
Cylinders |
Engine
Size |
Applications
|
| M10 |
4
|
2
Valve 1.6, 1.8, 2.0 Litre |
1600,
2002, 320i, 318i |
| M20 |
6
|
2
Valve 2.0, 2.3, 2.5, 2.7 litre |
323i,
325e, 325i, 528e |
| M30 |
6
|
2
Valve 2.8, 3.0, 3.3, 3.5 litre |
528i
thru 81 630csi,633csi,635csi, 533i,535i thru 92, 733i,735i
thru 92 |
| M42 |
4
|
4
Valve 1.8 litre |
318i/is
90 thru 95 |
| M44 |
4
|
4
Valve 1.9 litre |
318i
96 on, Z3 1.9 |
| M50 |
6
|
4
Valve 2.5 litre |
|